The Location May be Odd, but the Food is Good - The Grubbery
Monday, August 4, 2014
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Just east of Northfield, along Havana, you’ll find an odd location
for a good restaurant. It almost feels like you’re invading the office
cafeteria to go to The
Grubbery – albeit a
really nice office cafeteria. True, The Grubbery is housed in the sleek lobby
of the Scott’s Liquid Gold headquarters,
just north of I-70. And true, probably the majority of their diners are from
Scott’s and all of the surrounding businesses in this industrial area. But if
it’s relegated to office lunching, that would be a shame for The Grubbery.
With glossy yet warm decor, reasonable prices and huge portions,The Grubbery serves
lunch and dinner Monday-Friday and brunch on the weekends. The service is
extremely attentive and stealthy. My drink was refilled without my even
noticing. When I commented, our server joked “ya, I’m like a Ninja.” Indeed. We
ordered the Steak and Pesto sandwich ($9.99), Spaghetti Marinara with housemade
meatballs ($11.99), a 1/4 pound BYOB burger ($7.99) and a Reuben sandwich
($9.49).
The
basil-rubbed flank steak in the Steak and Pesto sandwich was
delicious and tender but with the thick Fontina cheese, and soft,
caramelized onion, it became very rich very soon. Frankly, I would have
been happy with just the seasoned steak and onion on the bread, letting those
two ingredients shine.
The
spaghetti and meatballs was good with a fresh, not overcooked sauce and tender
meatballs. All that was missing was a larger piece of baguette to go with that
large amount of pasta. The BOYB burger was juicy goodness. With up to
three choices in toppings, including cheese, bacon, fried egg, or pork
belly, my companion really only wanted cheese and bacon. The server offered a
double helping of bacon to make up the third offering. How many times do you
get offered more bacon in a restaurant?! That’s the stuff! The Reuben was thick
and meaty, almost to a fault, Because it was so nice and thick, the heat didn’t
reach through to the middle during the grilling. All sandwiches come with
chips or fries. We all opted for the potatoey shoestrings.
On the
dessert menu, it said items were big enough for sharing. We took that to heart
and ordered the Brownie Sundae and the Ice Cream Sandwich between the five of
us. We could have easily invited another couple of people over to share. The
brownie was huge, warm and cakey. The ice cream sandwich suffered from the
inevitable problem with this treat – the cookie hardens too much as the ice
cream softens too much, making for a teetering, squishing mess that you have to
simultaneously eat by hand and by spoon. The vanilla ice cream with both
desserts was creamy and so, so good.
We’ll give The Grubbery another go
for lunch or dinner to try the ribs, flatbread pizza or salads. And I’ve got to
return for the weekend brunch to try Empanadas Rancheros (steak
and cilantro empanadas topped with eggs, cheese and green
chili), Breakfast Croissant (two eggs, cheddar cheese, applewood smoked
bacon and avocado on a croissant) or the Pork Belly Benedict. I can see
that hollandaise oozing over the pork now! The restaurant has an afternoon happy
hour as well as a morning one (no judging), lunch specials and they serve
Starbucks Coffee Drinks.
For other restaurant reviews as well as news and reviews of movies, theater and travel, visit the In Good Taste Denver blog at http://ingoodtastedenver.com/.
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