It's hard to find a good brunch place when you have 2 kids under the age of 4. If the food is good, the wait is too long (hello, Snooze). If it's kid-oriented, the food is sugary and syrupy and makes my kid a disaster the rest of the day. You see the dilemma?

So imagine my joy when I found the holy trinity: deliciously-good-and-good-for-you food, quick service, and kid-friendly. It's the best breakfast sandwich in town, in the most unexpected place: The Denver Biscuit Company, located inside the Atomic Cowboy. Yes, the bar on Colfax.

It's all about the biscuit. That good Southern homemade biscuit, light and flaky and buttery.

And everything goes with biscuits. Sausage, made in-house; gravy; bacon; eggs; DenBisCo's tangy strawberry-rhubarb butter; and my personal favorite: buttermilk fried chicken.

That's right. Fried chicken on a biscuit.

Fried chicken gets a bad rap (thanks to the disaster that is KFC) but when it's made well, like it is here, it is divine. Juicy and crispy and salty, it is... well, finger-lickin' good. Truly. I'd come here just for the fried chicken.

And the make their own pickles, tart and buttery sweet with a spicy kick, all at once.

As for the kids, my boy grabs the Connect Four game from the pile of bar games up front, devours his biscuit with honey, and then runs around the pool table while Mom & Dad enjoy our meal.

You can't ask for more than that.


See:

Rise and Shine at Denver Biscuit Company, via Westword

Penny Parker's column, via The Denver Post